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This simple A-frame is designed for a medium size dog about 400 mm high but can easily be adapted for use by a larger dog by extending the length of the legs of the A-frame. Just remember that the dog has to be able to turn around inside his house before lying down.
(Quantity / thickness x width x length. Wood measurements are always in millimetres):
Set the sliding bevel to 30°. Mark and cut four legs from the 50 x 75 x 1200 pieces by cutting a 30° bevel at one end and a 60° bevel at the other end.
Mark and cut 60° bevels at each end of the two floor bearers.
Cut two gusset plates from hardboard as indicated (one upside down).
Give all the wood except the knotty pine ceiling board at least two coats of primer and one coat of undercoat paint before assembly. Take special care to cover the bottom of the floor board properly.
For each pair nail the two legs together at the 60° angle using the gusset with at least three 50 mm wire nails in each leg.
Nail the floor bearer to the legs on the same side as the gusset, 50 mm from the bottom of the legs, and bolt in place.
Do the same with the other two legs.
The floor board:
Cut a recess of 50 x 90 into each corner of one end of the floorboard (the back).
On the other (front) end cut a recess of 250 x 90 into each corner.
Bevel the 50 and 250 mm sides of the recesses to fit between the legs.
Bevel the 900 mm edge of the floor board to form a smooth line between the front and back frames.
Repaint the edges.
Fit the floorboard to the front A-frame by pushing the 250 mm recessed wood through the frame from the gusset side. Now push the back A-frame, gusset side first, over the floorboard. Pin the floorboard with two 50 mm wire nails to each of the floor bearers and check that everything is square.
Nail a piece of waste wood to the top of each of the two A-frames to keep them exactly 900 mm apart.
Now hammer the pin nails home and secure the floor board with a few more nails to the bearers. Square off and finish the floor board to be perfectly level with the back of the A-frame.
Measure and cut the bottom plank for the back at 60° on the face of the board and secure to the bottom of the frame. You can simply put the board against the frame and draw cutting lines. Make sure the tongue is facing upward. Nail the plank onto the A frame with a straight-through 32 mm panel pin at the bottom and a blind panel pin at the top of the board.
Now measure, cut and nail subsequent boards, slipping them over the tongue and blind nailing till the back of the kennel is covered.
Starting from the top, measure, cut and secure at least three boards to the A-frame in a similar manner as for the back, to form the top of the door. This height can be adjusted by adding more boards, depending on the size of the dog and the width of the knotty pine.
Starting from the bottom, nail 1200 mm long pieces of knotty pine ceiling board to the uprights of the A-frames overlapping the ends by about 100 mm. Make sure that the tongues face upwards.
Nail the bottom of the first plank to each upright with two panel pins and blind nail the top of the plank with 32 mm panel pins.
Measure and cut subsequent planks and slipping the groove over the tongue (making sure that they fit perfectly) blind nail them to the frame uprights until the whole side is covered.
Cover both sides.
The top ridge:
Bend a piece of aluminium sheeting (or whatever material you have decided on to make a ridge capping) to fit over the top of the ridge. Screw this in place with a few cheese head self-tapping screws.
Use a good polyurethane varnish or paint to finish off the outside of the kennel.
Place the kennel so that the door is protected from the prevailing wind and rain. Put the legs on bricks or paving stones rather that directly on the grass or ground.